![]() ![]() My flat works guys couldn't believe the lack of and straightness of my walls. ![]() Every sight I visited that used fox had blowouts and bulges. This was with multiple different yards not just one.Īlso I would suggest something other than Fox such as logix, buildblock, or amvic. He had even several times see them chuck the box, cardboard and all in. They are sharp so they won't stick their hands in(should use a hand weeder). He said most just chuck it in before heading to the sight hoping it will mix but because the wires interlock they stick in clumps. ![]() The batch plant has to carefully and slowly add it. But he said it was rare for a load to come to him properly mixed. He actually liked helix from his point of view as it cleaned his pipes out of dried crusty bits and made cleanup easy. I tied them well(not neccessary for final strength) as it helped even more. One is that doing rebar is not that bad and it signicantly stiffens the forms up and holds them against the weather. Also I was interested in helix but decided against it. Here's the semi-finished kitchen:Īs other stated, do a level footer first. It would be cool if a manufacturer made special blocks for that purpose. It was a fair amount of extra work, but I like the results. It makes the window seem much larger, and lets more light in. Instead, I used windows for a typical 4" wall, and then tapered the forms on the inside. Due to the thick walls, you get a tunnel effect at the windows if you make them flush with the outside, and of course you need to make huge jamb extensions. I had to shorten the blocks at the corners of the 8" to get the walls flush on the outside. That's fine if you want a brick ledge I didn't. The two sizes, when fit together will line up on the inside, and leave a 2" ledge on the outside. I used 8" for the basement, and 6" for the main floor. There was only one thing annoying about Fox. I was impressed by how accurately the Fox Blocks stacked up. I snapped lines, and glued the first course of blocks down with a foam gun. But we also started with really, really good footings. I'm a toolmaker by trade, so I'm sure I spent a lot more time than typical to keep everything perfect as I went. A string stretched tight from each corner is used to adjust to. They are set to lean inward very slightly, then adjusted once filled but not set. The only adjustment was when filling the forms. Doesn't look like you need rebar at all.Ĭhecked with lasers, the top of two stories was within 1/4", which I consider very accurate for a house. You can probably look at several time-lapse videos and see that people don't use rebar in a traditional way with helix. They have a few videos on their site and also tons of others on YouTube. I'm pretty sure you don't need (traditional) rebar in a fab-form monopour system. Helix was very specific about exactly how much we needed, composition of the concrete, etc. īut I also did stick framing on the slab. The two hardest things I ran into was finding a concrete supplier who was willing to come do such a small job (with helix) and the dumbass building inspector (he's family so I can talk shit about him. Speed bump seems like he's done it a time or two. Anything with walls and you have to break it up. If you do slab on grade you can do it all in one pour. Most of why we needed stamps was about the interface of the new slab with the existing slab. The guys at helix and fab form were amazing. ![]() I did everything myself except the pour and the flatwork. Boom truck on street reaching over the house to pour. I did a (small) slab addition on our house last year with icf and helix. ![]()
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